Crete is a place apart – not just another Greek island, more like a separate country. Crete lies on the same latitude as Tunisia, with the same baking hot summers; but here, pleasantly tempered by breezes from the sea.

The land is infinitely varied – mountain ranges rise up to 8,000 feet, Europe’s deepest gorge winds for twelve miles through rock walls at times 1,000 feet high, and countless beaches lead to a clear blue sea. Add to these high alpine meadows, well watered plains and valleys, a rich archaeology, and flora and fauna as yet largely unthreatened and you have an island worth a visit.

It is a good idea to hire a car and explore. Quite unlike any other island, Crete is for travellers as well as for tourists. It is an experience not to be missed.

On the Eastern end of Crete, notably at Elounda and Istron, there are some wonderful, luxurious hotels, where many will wish to stay put and completely relax! However, for those who wish to explore there is almost too much to see and do all within a 90 minute drive.

Go east, high above the sea to the small market town of Sitia; west to Heraklion, Knossos Palace and the museum; south for a different mood and miles of beach; inland to the high plateau of Lassithi; or simply discover a minoan site or Byzantine chapel. For a change, take a boat trip to fortified Spinalonga island or hit the bright lights of Aghios Nikolaos.

Chania is the main town in the west and has a strong Venetian flavour, particularly around its immense harbour, lined with restaurants. Behind, a maze of narrow lanes and crumbling Venetian facades conceal more restaurants, small shops and atmospheric cafés.

The area around Chania is lush. Inland there are mountains and a myriad of tiny villages to explore. Every reasonably fit visitor should walk the Samaria Gorge, Europe’s deepest (open early May to early October). The only exit is by boat.

The spectacular south-west coast encapsulates the best of Crete – dizzy mountain scenery (all peaks and gorges – Samaria is at its heart), a sparkling sea and some fine beaches. Paleochora is the only settlement of any size here. With a crumbling Venetian fortress above and a Blue Flag beach to each side (one pebble, one sand), a winding drive through the mountains is the only way in other than by sea. There are plenty of restaurants and cafés above the sea or in the main street. In the summer evenings there is a positively cosmopolitan atmosphere, as the roads in the centre of town are sealed to traffic and the tavernas spill into the street. The main beach is of fine golden sand and stretches for nearly a kilometre.

The Northwest of Crete is home to the neighbouring villages of Kalives and Almirida, with the White Mountains behind. Both provide fine sandy beaches and good swimming. Centred around a tree-shaded square housing a couple of cafés and the handsome village church, Kalives has a good choice of authentic local tavernas serving wholesome fare and a number of small shops. The village boasts two long sandy beaches with sunbeds for rent.

Life in Almirida revolves around the beach and the half-dozen tavernas above the sea. The village now has several café-bars, a bakery and two minimarkets. Last summer, windsurfers, catamarans and sea-kayaks could be rented, subject to availability.